Trousers are a tricky beast in fashion -- often misunderstood, plagued by an overabundance of terms and names, and surprisingly difficult to find in a comfortable fit. But (much like the bassist in a good band) they bring everything together even when they aren't the star of the show. Understanding the role of your trousers and the options you have in choosing them are the keys to comfortable, sharp-looking clothes for your lower half.
The Role of Trousers in Men’s Fashion
Good trousers are never the defining characteristic of a man's outfit, unless you're a circus clown. A well-chosen outfit should direct attention toward the face and help it stand out in the viewer's mind, and drawing the eye below the waist does nothing to further that goal. Instead, trousers should present as smooth and unbroken a path as possible up the wearer's body; the best trousers will be able to retain their sleek profile whether the wearer is moving or stationary; seated or standing.
On a more practical note, of course, trousers are also where men tend to carry the little necessities of life -- their keys, wallet, cell phone, and so on. Good trousers will have pockets of the proper size and shape to carry a few small items without bulging; loading the pockets and checking a mirror can be an excellent test for off-the-rack trousers. Custom-made trousers can simply be fitted with all the usual daily items in the pockets to see if any adjustments are needed.
Trouser Fit for Men
The perfect pair of trousers should follow the natural shape of a man's body: widest at the waist, tapering all the way to the ankles, with no excess fabric hanging loose or billowing. At the same time, trousers need to be loose enough to allow for movement, and should never wrinkle or bunch around the thighs -- this is a sign that the trousers are too tight. Dress trousers should never narrow and then widen lower down on the body.
Modern dressers should remember that the "fall" of dress trousers -- the distance from the waist to the crotch -- is longer than that of casual jeans, meaning that the pants should be worn higher on the body. Contemporary jeans are often fitted to be worn at the hips, while dress pants should rest comfortably above the hips. A well-fitted pair of dress pants should never be able to slide off the body on its own, even without a belt or suspenders. Trousers are often tailored for wear with suspenders rather than belts, in which case the fall will be even longer and the fit slightly looser. This allows the pants to "hang" on the man's body, which presents a very smooth and flat drape. Many fine dressers prefer suspenders to belts, and often wear trousers with no belt loops at all.
When in doubt, wear a pair of pants with no belt or suspenders and examine the fit. If the trousers pinch or are slipping off, the fit is incorrect. If excess fabric is billowing or "ballooning" anywhere, or if the crotch sags loosely, the trousers are too loose; if wrinkles and bunching appear in the fabric when you move they are too tight. And, of course, if moving or sitting in a pair of trousers is uncomfortable for any reason, you should be asking yourself if you really want to spend an entire day wearing them.
Men’s Trouser Style
Pleated vs. Plain-front
Trend-setters and fashion designers can't seem to make their minds up on the subject of pleats. One year they'll be in, and the next year they'll be declared dead forever, only to return a few seasons later. Understanding what pleats are and what they do for a garment is more useful than knowing whether the top brands are favoring them this year -- the fashion may come and go, but the actual function of pleats doesn't change.
Pleats are small folds in the fabric of a garment that have been permanently fixed in place. In trousers, they appear as small vertical lines running from the waistband to around the same height as the crotch of the garment. These little folds of fabric add flexibility to the front of the trousers. They can expand slightly when the wearer sits or stretches, keeping the same smooth-draped appearance without any visible tightening and wrinkling. A single fold on each side of the trousers is the most common style, but double pleats on each side will add more flexibility, making it ideal for men with wider legs. Pleats are also another helpful judge of fit -- pleated trousers are too tight in the thigh if the folds "open" when standing straight. They should only flex and widen when the wearer sits or stretches his leg out.
Since they add extra flexibility and comfort, it may seem like pleated trousers are the only logical choice, but there are a few advantages to plain-front trousers. They do offer a narrower, sleeker front than pleated trousers -- so long as the wearer is standing and mostly stationary. Tall, slim men particularly benefit from plain-front trousers, as any extra cloth around the hips can make their trousers appear too loose. For most men, however, pleats will usually be both the best-looking option and the most comfortable.
Trouser Cuffs
In the interests of balance, pleated pants almost always feature cuffs and plain-front trousers are frequently cuffless. Breaking these rules does not exactly constitute a glaring faux pas, but it would be an odd stylistic choice, and risks drawing attention to the trousers -- the opposite of their function. It's best to opt for the balanced appearance and wear unpleated trousers without cuffs; pleated trousers with them.
Trouser Pockets
Traditionally, the front pocket opening on a pair of dress trousers is a straight up-and-down slit, usually with no or very minimal hemming. This is to reduce its visual impact, hiding the fact that there is a pocket there at all as much as possible. Slanted pockets, particularly with a distinctive hem, are more casual but still appropriate on most trousers. You will almost never see the scooped style of jeans pockets on dress pants, outside of the occasional pair of corduroys or similar dress-casual wear.
Back pockets, like the front pockets, are most traditionally a single, unadorned slit, this time horizontal. Buttons are equally appropriate today, but adornments like flaps and tabs are a somewhat busier and more casual look. Some men may choose to have one or both of these pockets eliminated altogether, especially on trousers that are part of a suit -- unless a man carries a great many small items his suit jacket offers ample cargo space on its own. This keeps the drape of the trousers completely even in the back, and can be more comfortable to sit on as well.
All men are, of course, aided by keeping as few items as possible in their pockets. An overloaded pocket will bulge no matter how well the pants are tailored (though bringing your usual daily load of small items to a fitting can help a tailor make sure your trousers offer enough room).
Trouser Fabrics in Menswear
Most formal men's dress pants are made of woven wool or woolen blends. Gray flannel trousers are a long-standing classic, and with good reason -- the color goes well with almost everything and the fabric is comfortable and durable, cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Navy blue is nearly as common as gray, and just as formal, while brown and khaki are staples of casual office wear. Black trousers are less common outside of matched suits, as they tend to draw the eye away from whatever color is worn above. Heavier fabrics will create a smoother drape and help the trousers hang neatly, but are also less comfortable in the summer.
The English language has an abundance of words that all imply a light brownish-gray color. Different designers frequently use different words for the same color, or the same word for very different colors. For purposes of stylistic discussion they all behave about the same -- you won't find any set of circumstances where a "tan" suit would be appropriate but “khaki" wouldn't be. In their most common usage the different styles of light coat break down as follows:
Tan refers to light, predominantly brown shades.
Dun refers to a darker brown than tan, sometimes with a greenish tint.
Khaki is the most dominantly yellow shade of the related colors, with little brown or gray.
Taupe is a darker color with gray tones as well as brown.
These are, however, only general guidelines, and every store or designer will have a slightly different take on each color. It's not impossible to see other terms as well -- just remember that, from a stylistic standpoint, they all follow the same rules. Which one to purchase will be a matter of taste, complexion, and budget.
Light colors like tan are not as formal as their darker counterparts. Brown suits in general have been a historically informal choice, and have only recently been embraced as business-wear by men looking to break-up the monotony of dark color in their wardrobe. The lighter versions are still considered purely social wear or seasonal wear by those who adhere to strict dress rules.
Lighter color suits are also associated with spring and summer, their lighter shades signifying the lightness of the season. Trying to wear a light colored suit in New York City during December not only invites odd looks but opens a man up to the impracticality of keeping it clean from muddy slush. Light colored suits are best for dry & warm weather.
As a result, tan suits are usually considered business-casual wear. They may well be appropriate attire for daily work at more relaxed offices, but will not serve at formal meetings or serious occasions. These lighter suits shine best when worn for social and relaxed occasions -- as poisonous as the term "leisure suit" has become, with its brightly-colored polyester associations, that's exactly what most light brown/yellow/gray suits are made for. They're a relaxed choice for men who prefer to appear well-dressed even during their personal time. Patterning may be used to make the suit still more casual. Both stripes and checks are common in light brown suits, including subdued plaids of varying earth-tones.
Light-colored tan suits are often used as comfortable summer wear, and tend to be made from lighter fabrics with lighter construction in the shoulders and perhaps even unlined. Both cotton and linen are common, in varying weaves and usually in reasonably thin cloth. Some of these suits can be constructed without dyes, using the natural color of the thread to create a light tan. Others will be dyed further for a deeper color, or create a pattern from threads of multiple colors woven together. Textured cloths like tweed and corduroy are popular for their relaxed appearance and visually "busy" forms.
Wool suits can be thicker and richer-looking than their cotton or linen counterparts. They hang in a flatter drape with a little more visual weight, and can add to a man's bulk as well. In tans they tend toward the yellowish-brown of camelhair, a traditionally casual look. Camelhair jackets are rarely made from the hair of actual camels, which tends to be uncomfortably coarse; when it is a blend of softer wools is almost always used, dyed to achieve the same color. Some natural wools also have their own light brown coloring, and can be used un-dyed in suit construction.
Fitting a Light Brown or Tan Suit
Khaki or tan suits can be fitted as close or as loose as the wearer pleases. Lighter fabrics, especially linens, can be prone to wrinkling if they are improperly fitted, however -- a loose suit will billow and fold, while a too-tight fit causes the material to bunch up in unattractive ripples. A well-measured suit still needs to sit comfortably at all points without constricting movement or flapping loosely. In fact it is worth pointing out that of all suit colors, the light browns, tans, and khakis are the least forgiving when it comes to fit as they will readily show the shadows and creases associated with bad drape and hang. So if this suit isn’t custom, make sure it fits well off the rack and take it to a tailor for final adjustment!
As a casual garment, a light brown suit allows for numerous stylistic changes. Flourishes that would be considered too "busy" for the boardroom are appropriate on a suit worn during leisure time. A smaller "ticket pocket" above the normal front pockets gives the front of the suit a busier appearance, as does a boutonnière. Nearly any light or pastel color will work as a pocket square, and can be folded as extravagantly as a man pleases. Even rustic touches like leather elbow pads are not out of place on a casual tan suit although this final touch regulates the suit to non-business wear.
Matching a Tan Men's Suit with other Colors
Tan, dun, and the other light shades are usefully "neutral" colors -- they have no natural antecedents or opposites on the color wheel. There are really only two ways to clash badly with a khaki or tan: wearing very bold colors that overpower the restrained suit, or wearing colors that are similar but not quite exact matches. Pure black and bright colors look particularly odd with the casual light browns, and should be avoided. Any very stark shift from one color to another is going to look odd with tans -- plan on a gently-gradated appearance full of neighboring colors rather than one based on attractive contrast if you're going to make light brown a part of your outfit.
The other key to matching your tan suits well is to bring out the underlying colors of the suit. Some tans are very heavily brown, while others have gray, yellow, or even olive green undertones. These usually go unnoticed, but can be emphasized by the other pieces in your outfit. Yellow striping in a tie can bring out the yellow of a khaki suit, for example, or a spring green shirt under an olive-tinted brown suit can make the entire ensemble appear very carefully-coordinated. The opposite is also true, of course -- if you wear a tan suit with faint yellow undertones and wear a light purple shirt or tie, you risk looking like an Easter egg. Be sure to keep the dominant tones of your shirt and tie collections in mind when you buy a tan suit, and avoid anything with a contributing color that's going to clash badly.
Do you need a Tan or Khaki Suit?
Light brown, tan, khaki, and taupe suits are informal wear when compared with their darker colored brethren. They may be appropriate for some offices, but in general they are meant for days out, parties, and social engagements. A man who enjoys dressing up to suit-and-tie standards for such occasions has a regular use for tan suits, especially when the season calls for something lighter than grey or navy. Teachers may also find it makes a useful gap between professional dress and not looking like "the man" to students, though the latter may be a hopeless endeavor no matter what you wear.
If you only wear suits as a business matter and prefer a more casual standard for your personal life, you may not need a light brown suit in your closet. It could serve as an occasional outfit for work-related parties, particularly in the summer, but the odds are that you'd be able to find something else to work just as well.
The tan suit is ideal for the man looking to expand his dress wardrobe without adding yet another piece of business-formal wear that looks overdressed in casual company.
When dressing in suit and tie, it is the necktie that will often add the dash of flavor to the overall outfit. While suits are typically gray, navy, or black and dress shirts either blue or white, it is a man's neckwear that adds a strong accent with its color and pattern. With so many necktie options, finding the perfect tie that matches can be overwhelming. This article seeks to alleviate that pain.
1) Necktie Pattern
2) Necktie Color
3) Necktie Proportion
1st Tie Matching Factor - Necktie Pattern
Ties come in many patterns ranging from stripes to paisleys to tartan-check. So how would you go about matching a patterned tie to a pin-striped suit and a checkered pattern dress shirt? What are the rules to matching necktie patterns?
The rule for matching patterns is that no two pieces of clothing should utilize the same pattern size and to a lesser degree pattern type. By pattern size I mean the distance between the stripes on your shirt should not be close to the width of the stripes on your tie; by doing this you can create an optical illusion of movement which the human eye finds unattractive. Hence matching a subtle pin-striped suit with a larger check patterned dress shirt and intricate paisley pattern tie is acceptable; however wearing that same pin-striped suit and large check patterned dress shirt with striped tie that too closely mimics the suit’s stripe separation will create a questionable look. This rule applies when matching 3 or 5 patterns and of all three factors is the most important; a man will not wear a tie whose color he doesn’t like, but will often try to wear one whose color is pleasing but pattern is wrong.
Please note that for the purposes of tie matching we do not classify solid colored ties as having any pattern. Therefore the rules of pattern matching do not apply to true solid colored neckwear. As a result you could match multiple solids…..the combination would be boring, but acceptable. However, because pattern is not a factor the next two variables are even more important when considering a solid necktie.
When matching color the first thing you should do is look at all garments together to make sure that the colors are in harmony; if you have doubts trust your first impressions and try something different. “Convincing yourself” something matches may enable you to wear it, but you’ll not wear the combination with confidence. Trust first impressions – others you meet will.
But what does it mean to match, and what has precedent in terms of priority? Start with the suit -it is the largest clothing item and will be the foundation of the outfit. Next, pull out a few dress shirts of various colors and patterns and ensure you have two that match the suit. After that pull out a few of your favorite ties; giving the suit and shirt priority, select a tie that compliments your clothing. Most of us can see when there is a conflict between colors – something just looks wrong. If you feel your tie does not match, do not try to force it; instead simply substitute it for a more subtle necktie. If uncertain, the safest bet is to stick with the traditional (but somewhat boring) tie colors of business. Non-bright red and to a lesser extent gold and blue will go with most dark suits and white or light to medium-blue shirt combinations. Finally always remember that you want the necktie to accent your suit and shirt, not dominate them. If your tie overpowers your suit, you can bet it will draw attention from your face as well.
3rd Tie Matching Factor - Necktie Proportion
Although often not as important as either pattern or color, proportion can play a role in matching when a necktie varies from the standard 3.5 inch width and is either a skinny tie (less than 3 inches wide) or excessively wide tie (more than 3.75 inches). For skinny or wide ties you need to take in factors such as the height and weight of the individual and the width of his suit’s lapels. A thin petite man will look sharp with thin lapels and a thin tie, while a large man with wider build lapels wearing the same skinny tie will look ridiculous.
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If you like your body shape you are either male or a very unusual female! However, whether you like your body or not, if you understand what your current shape and proportions are and know a few style guidelines for your shape you are well on your way to looking your best.
Combine wearing flattering clothes with your best colors and you'll feel fabulous and impress everyone you meet.
There are a number of factors that are involved in a full style analysis. These include assessing...
Luckily beauty is in the eye of the beholder. However, the current stereotype of a "perfect" female body shape is moderately tall with a body balanced vertically, an hourglass figure and an oval shaped face.
For males the ideal is tall with a balanced vertical body and a trapezoid torso (that is, broad shoulders and chest tapering to medium waist and hips) and an oval face.
Not many of us do (only something like 2% of the population). However, you can create the illusion of a perfect body by choosing clothes to create the appearance of perfect proportions. It's all about balancing your perceived shape to the "perfect" shape (or moving your appearance in that direction, anyway).
For example, as a female, if you have long legs and a short, rectangle torso you can create the illusion of a longer, leaner, inverted triangle torso (the next best female shape). Do this by choosing tops that emphasize your shoulders and that flow through the waist, with a hemline between the lower hip to the tip of your fingers and with no horizontal seams across your torso.
As a male, if you have short legs and a long rectangle torso you can create the illusion of longer legs and a shorter trapezoid body by choosing shirts that make your shoulders look wider and tuck in your shirt to make your torso look shorter (as long as your stomach isn't too big). Choose trousers that are darker than your shirt and shoes in the same color as your trousers, or darker, to make your legs look longer.
Of course understanding your current shape doesn't rule out changing your shape through diet and exercise or, more drastically, through plastic surgery. The idea is to make the most of whatever shape you are now.
If you do change shape by more than 5.5cm (2 inches) then you should re-assess your body shape and ensure your clothing choices still flatter your current shape.
Start by assessing your vertical body proportions. This is the proportion of the bottom half of your body compared to your top half.
Vertical shape is important for identifying your best garment lengths (tops and bottoms) and will come into play in determining if you should tuck-in tops or wear top garments un-tucked.
There are three vertical body types and these are applicable to both males and females.
The most accurate way to determine your vertical shape is to measure your full height and the height to your hip-line (your hip-line is the circumference around your hips where your bottom is fullest) and determine where your hip-line comes in relation to your height.
Alternatively use the rough assessment guidelines below...
If your legs are short compared to your upper body you have short legs and a long torso...
Your hip-line height is less than half your height
You may also have a low waist -- your waist will be lower than your bent elbow
You will have a long torso -- typically you will put on weight first on your thighs and hips
Your bottom will typically be low and heavy
You may also be short – although tall people can also be short legged
Your main style aims are to create the illusion of longer legs and a shorter torso.
Do wear...
Jewellery, scarves and garment designs that draw the observer's eye up towards your shoulders and face
Short to medium-long tops
Tucked-in tops (if young and slim)
Layered tops
Medium or light tops and dark pants or skirts
Medium to wide belts
Straight skirts
Straight or boot-leg pants
Pant, sock and shoe colors the same
Medium to high heels
Pant hems to the ground
Don't wear...
Long tops (if you are short)
Pants or skirts with a dropped waistband
Tight or tapered skirts
Tight or tapered pants
Cropped pants
If your upper body length is about the same as your lower body length you have a balanced body...
Your hip-line height is half your full height
Your waist is at your bent elbow
Females may be low busted
You tend to put on weight around your torso or hips and thighs
You probabaly have a round well formed bottom or you have a flat bottom
You have proportionally slim arms and legs
If you are less than 160cm (5’3”) with a small to medium body scale then you are also petite.
Your main style aim is to elongate your mid-torso.
Do wear...
Jewellery, scarves and garment designs that draw the observer's eye up towards your shoulders and face
Medium-long tops
Un-tucked tops
Tops and bottoms in the same color
Tops and dresses that flow through the waist
Skirts and pants with narrow waistbands or no waistband
Straight or flared skirts
Waisted, low-rise or hipster pants
Straight or flared pants
Don't wear...
Short tops
Empire line tops and dresses
Wide belts
Pants or skirts with a high waistband
If your legs are longer than your upper body you have a long legged vertical body type...
Your hipline height is higher than half your full height
You should also have a high waist -- your waist will be higher than your bent elbow
You will have a proportionally short torso
Your bottom will typically be round and high
You tend to put on weight around your waist, above your waist or on the back of your hips
You may also be tall -- although short people can also be long legged
Your main style aims are to create visual balance by creating the illusion of a longer mid-torso and shorter legs.
Do wear...
Design details that draw the eye down, such as border prints on skirts and pants (unless you are short)
Medium-long to long accessories (unless you are short)
Skirts and pants in the lighter colors than tops
Medium-long to long tops (if you are short, no longer than knuckle length)
Un-tucked tops
Tops and dresses that flow through the waist
Skirts and pants with narrow waistbands or no waistband
Straight and flared skirts
Low-rise or hipster pants
Straight and flared pants
Don't wear...
Focal points that draw the eye upwards
Pin stripes
Short tops
Empire line tops and dresses
Wide belts
Pants or skirts with a high waistband
Tapered pants and skirts
Before you can dress for your shape you need to understand what your shape and body proportions are. For professional help, either in-person or online, use my image consulting services.
Your horizontal shape is the relationship between your chest, waist and hip-line. It is their relative proportion to each other that is important rather than their actual size.
Your horizontal body type is used to identify the clothing styles that will suit you best. Although it is important to note that other factors can change some of these recommendations, such as face shape, neck and shoulder size and prominent features.
If you are male identify your horizontal body shape here.
If you are female identify your horizontal body shape from the pictures and descriptions below.
To do this assessment stand in front of a full length mirror. A long straight object such as a long ruler or a broom handle will also be useful to work out whether your hip-line is narrower, wider, or the same width as your bust-line. The easiest way to see this is to hold the ruler under your arm pit and rest it on your hip.
Select the link on your horizontal body shape to find out the general style aims and specific dos and don’ts for your horizontal body type.
This is known as the perfect body shape. You have an hourglass figure if...
Your full hip-line and your full bust-line are the same width and your waist is well defined
You most likely have a balanced body vertical body shape
Check the general style guidelines for your hourglass figure by clicking here.
Get personalized style recommendations that take all of your body proportions into account by clicking here.
This is the second best female shape. You have an inverted triangle body shape if...
You have a proportionally large bust, or you have broad shoulders, or both
You have narrow hips with a well defined waist
You most likely are a long legged vertical body shape with proportionally slim legs
You may also have a flat bottom
Check the general style guidelines for your inverted triangle figure by clicking here.
Get personalized style recommendations that take all of your body proportions into account by clicking here.
The triangle body type is often also referred to as pear-shaped. You have this shape if...
Your full bust-line is proportionally narrower than your full hip-line and you have a well defined waist
You typically have narrow shoulders
You most likely have a balanced body or short legged vertical body shape
Your thighs are typically full
You may also have a full rounded bottom
Check the general style guidelines for your triangle figure by clicking here.
Get personalized style recommendations that take all of your body proportions into account by clicking here.
You have a rectangle body if...
Your full bust-line and full hip-line are about the same width and you have little waist definition
Your legs and arms will typically be proportionally slender
You have a small to medium bust
You most likely have a balanced body or long legged vertical body shape
You may also have a flat bottom
You may have had an hourglass figure when you were younger or slimmer
You may look shorter and heavier than you really are
Check the general style guidelines for your rectangle figure by clicking here.
Get personalized style recommendations that take all of your body proportions into account by clicking here.
This body shape is also often referred to as an apple shape. You have an oval horizontal body if...
You have the overall appearance of being round especially around the waist-line
Your waistline is undefined
You have a large, low stomach
You may have "love handles"
Your hips are wide
Your upper thighs are full
You may also have a full bottom or a flat bottom
Check the general style guidelines for your oval figure by clicking here.
Get personalized style recommendations that take all of your body proportions into account by clicking here.
This body shape is also referred to as an apple shape. You have this body shape if...
Your waist is undefined
You have a large, high stomach
You may have "love handles"
You may also have a full bottom or a flat bottom
Check the general style guidelines for your diamond figure by clicking here.
Get personalized style recommendations that take all of your body proportions into account by clicking here.
It can be difficult to be objective about your body shape. So, if you still can't decide which shape you are...
If you're in Sydney, come and see me for a shape analysis and style consultation for men, for women
