Showing posts with label An Introduction to Shirt Fabrics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label An Introduction to Shirt Fabrics. Show all posts

Spring 2011 Men Fashions Shows

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Trussardi 1911.
Talk about a home-run hitter, Trussardi's collection is the most comprehensive I've viewed thus far. They mix the best trends with forwarding-thinking luxury fashion, while mixing in retro American style the whole way. The collection has something for every type of guy: the traditionalist, the prep, the rocker, the 'whatever category you put may find yourself in', there's atleast a couple pieces in Trussardi's spring collection that's for you. Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket

Men's Suit Jacket and Trousers

A man's suit is his statement to the world, a calling card that signals where he is going and where he has been. A custom tailored suit is a reflection of his willingness to pay attention to detail, from the color and texture of the fabric to the selection of a cut that flatters his figure. As you will see, we pay attention to these details so that you can focus on the things you consider important. To learn more about men's custom tailored suits, visit our style guide.

Below are detailed images of our some of our finished men's custom suits.

This is a form fitting, three button, single breasted men's suit crafted from fabric #1-6-33. The jacket has notched lapels, straight flapped pockets, four working sleeve buttons and a single vent. You won't find a deep hued brown such as this in an off the rack men's suit. A handmade suit such as this can take you from the ordinary to the extraordinary.

mens_suit_brown

This is a regular fitting, three button, single breasted men's suit crafted from fabric #1-3-16. The jacket has notched lapels, straight flapped pockets, three working sleeve buttons and a single vent. This medium gray with white beaded stripes is an excellent choice for a 3rd or 4th suit. Not as ordinary as a solid navy blue or charcoal gray suit, it nonetheless is perfectly fine for everyday wear to the office especially for those in finance.

mens_suit_gray

A hallmark of quality workmanship in men's suits is the ability to match a fabrics patterns in the most visible locations on the suit. A lot of times this requires hours of extra work and more fabric on the part of the tailor shop. We feel it's worth it; don't you?

mens_suit_shoulder

Your jacket lapels should always lay flat against your chest. Here you can see details such as hand stitching in this notched lapel.

mens_suit_lapel

Peak lapels on a grey sharkskin jacket (Fabric #1-2-51). Peak lapels are rarely seen on single breasted jackets, yet are a very stylish feature especially for the larger man whose torso takes up a disproportional amount of his body. The wide jacket lapels help bring balance to the presentation, and the vertical lines help elongate a large man's figure. Peak lapels can also flatter an athletic built man as well.

Bespoke Suit Peak Lapel

Two of our men's suit jackets turned inside out. Here you can see the detail in the lining, the stitching, and the piping (the bit of fabric decorating the border between the suit's fabric and lining). Also notice the extra buttons (just in case), wide variety of interior pockets, and extra fabric for durability built into the armpits.

mens suit jacket interior

On this jacket, you can see that the client asked for a bright red lining. Although a bit flashy, a gentleman can easily keep this secret concealed from the world until he decides to remove his coat in front of others. Then it becomes a conversation starter. That's the beauty of a custom jacket - it is built to your desires and needs.

Bright red jacket lining

Working sleeve cuffs are standard on all of our garments. Their purpose? Historically, it was to protect the cuffs when washing or cleaning. Today, it is a subtle sign that the suit is of quality build. Look around, you'll see that the vast majority of off the rack suits do not have this feature.

mens suit working sleeve buttons

A bespoke jacket with working sleeve buttons is one thing - that they are individually handstitched is a true luxury that many men overlook. Here you can see the "ugly face" of hand stitching on the back off this custom jacket's button holes (the other side is much cleaner looking). The point - every custom jacket we build is an individual piece of art, hand crafted by a tailor whose attention to detail you can proudly wear.

Custom Bespoke Hand stitched buttons

A man's trousers are designed to not draw attention to themselves; instead, they draw the eyes upward towards the jacket or downward towards the shoes. But just because trousers play a supporting role does not mean we overlooked any details in your pant's construction.

mens slacks front trousers

Here you can see another special request, button-fly trousers. Common in jeans, this is much harder to pull off in close fitting dress trousers as that there is no room for an unsightly bulge. All buttons are hand sewn as well!

button fly men's trousers

Here is a different view of a pair of men's trousers, exposing the three fastening in an extended waist strap. The purpose of three fastenings? To evenly distribute the pressure placed on your fastenings as you move throughout the day. The result is a pair of men's trousers that not only fit better but feel better.

mens_slacks_interior2

Here we can see the interior, specifically the trouser backside. Notice the amount of fabric built into the trousers; this allows adjustment in the case you have a little too much to eat over the holidays.

mens_slacks_inside

Another view of the interior of a pair of men's trousers. Here the customer asked for an elastic rubber shirt stay strap around the waist (free upon request, although not recommended). Here we can see the inner lining that goes up the front of the thighs to ensure the fabric drapes properly; additionally we place extra fabric around the crotch area for comfort and durability.

mens_slacks_interior

A favorite for travelers, the hidden money/credit card/identification pocket on our custom trousers is something you'll never find on off the rack trousers. Walking through a crowded bazaar, you'll have no need to worry about pickpockets making off with your cash or ID.

mens_slacks_hidden_pocket

Tired of wearing belts? Why not try an elastic band that fits around the back and can tighten your trousers when you need it. A detail such as this is almost impossible to find at any department store - but for our customers side tabs are only a request away.

adjustable trouser side straps

The interior of our pant's cuffs - notice the extra fabric sewn at the end? A small detail, but one that will help protect your investment from the wear and tear of everyday use.

mens_slacks_cuffs

Our customers come from all walks of life and work in a variety of professions; however they all share the confidence of knowing they look great in the clothing we have helped them create. Do you feel this way in your suit?

mens_suit_gray2

An Introduction to Shirt Fabrics

Shirt fabrics, or "shirtings" as they are called by tailors, are of various nature and variously appropriate. Cotton is by far the most common fabric for dress shirts, and most fabric names refer to a particular method of weaving it. The numbers sometimes listed with fabrics denote the thickness of the yarn from which the fabric is made; higher numbers mean thinner yarn, and thence finer cloth and higher prices.

Men's Shirt Fabric Oxford
Oxford cloth, the coarsest shirting, is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A more casual fabric, its most natural form is the button-down collar. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts, only the threads running in one direction are dyed, while the others are left white. This gives the fabric its characteristic textured appearance. Pinpoint Oxford is woven likewise, but of finer yarn, and is thus smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still, and can stand proudly beside a fine wool suit and expensive tie.

Men's Shirt Fabric PoplinPoplin bears a smoother texture but similar weight, the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it. It is soft and comfortable, and often used in more casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.

Men's Shirt Fabric CottonCotton twill, a shimmery diagonal weave, makes for richly textured shirts without sacrificing formality. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch or so, giving the fabric even more depth. When occasion or whim calls for a solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache.

Men's Shirt Fabric BroadclothFiner still is broadcloth, of fine yarn woven so tightly that it gleams. This is the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away. Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.

Formal shirts are made of white piqué cotton, which boasts a rich, woven texture. This is the only shirt proper for black tie or white tie, and it is not appropriate for anything else.

Besides pure cotton, all the fabrics above can be found in cotton/polyester blends. These are less expensive, and while they do not look as rich or feel as smooth, they can often be worn without ironing. No-iron 100% cotton shirts offer the rich look of natural fiber with the ease of synthetics, but the good ones are very expensive and the cheap ones irritate the skin. Synthetics fibers get itchy and uncomfortable in extreme heat, i.e. over 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Ironing is really not that much work, and it is the surest way to look and feel good in shirts which are affordable enough that you can stock your closet with a diverse collection of them.